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IntermediateHurghada

SS Thistlegorm

A British war freighter still loaded with the equipment of an army that never received it — motorcycles, trucks, rifles and two railway locomotives — and the best-known wreck dive in the world outside Truk Lagoon.

This wreck is a grave

Nine men died here and the wreck is a war grave. Nothing should be removed and nothing disturbed.

Built
Built 1940 by Joseph L. Thompson & Sons, Sunderland
Lost
6 October 1941 — Bombed by two German Heinkel He 111s hunting a troopship
Ship
British armed merchant freighter, 126m
Depth
16–32m
Diving it
Long day boat from Hurghada (a very early start, two to four hours each way) or a northern liveaboard, which is the civilised way to do it

What happened

The Thistlegorm was on her fourth voyage, carrying supplies to the Eighth Army in North Africa, when the Suez Canal was blocked ahead of her. She anchored in the Strait of Gubal at a spot designated Safe Anchorage F, and waited. She waited for two weeks.

On the night of 5 October 1941 two Heinkel He 111 bombers flew from Crete looking for the Queen Mary, which was reported to be carrying troops in the area. They did not find her. On the way back, running low on fuel, they found the anchored convoy instead. Two bombs struck hold four at 01:30 on 6 October, where the ammunition was stored.

The explosion tore the ship in two and threw both of the 70-tonne steam locomotives chained to her deck clear of the hull; they lie on the seabed either side of her to this day. She sank in nine minutes. Four crew and five naval gunners were killed, and the rest were picked up by HMS Carlisle, which was anchored nearby.

Jacques Cousteau found and dived her in 1955, published photographs in National Geographic, and then declined to say where she was. The wreck was effectively lost again until Israeli and then Egyptian skippers relocated it in the early 1990s, since when it has become the most dived wreck in the Red Sea — which is both why it is extraordinary and why it is crowded.

What is down there

  • Two LMS Stanier Class 8F steam locomotives on the seabed, blown there by the explosion
  • More than a hundred BSA and Norton 16H motorcycles, many still racked inside Bedford trucks
  • Universal Carriers, Bren guns, .303 rifles, ammunition boxes and stacks of Wellington boots
  • Aircraft parts and railway wagons in the forward holds
  • The stern section, blown open and lying apart from the rest, with the anti-aircraft gun still trained

Conditions

  • Current is common and can be strong, running along the hull; the shot line is not optional
  • Best dived early — by mid-morning in season there can be twenty boats on the site
  • Visibility is usually good but drops when the site is busy and the silt is stirred

What to watch out for

  • The holds are an overhead environment. They are large and inviting, which is exactly the problem: penetration needs training, a light and a plan, and this wreck has killed divers who improvised.
  • The day-boat version from Hurghada is a very long day for two dives. If wreck diving is the reason you came, a liveaboard is a better use of the same money.
  • Souveniring is theft from a war grave — and the law is thinner than divers assume: she only crosses the UNESCO underwater-heritage threshold in 2041, so the enforceable rules are CDWS’s, which ban touching or removing anything. The 2007 HEPCA campaign installed the moorings that stopped boats tying into her. The site is visibly poorer than the photographs from the 1990s.

Is it worth it?

Yes — this is the one wreck on this coast worth planning a trip around, and no photograph prepares you for the scale of the cargo. But go early, go with an operator that limits the group, and do not expect solitude.

This is planning and history, not a dive briefing. Conditions change; your guide on the day is the authority. Diving emergency numbers and the coast’s recompression chambers are on our emergency contacts page.

This wreck also has a dive-site briefing: SS Thistlegorm

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